It’s Peloponneasy!

265 nights : 8,946 miles travelled :  Countries visited: 15

‘In all things of nature there is something of the marvellous’   Aristotle

Why are you visiting us now? Why not come to Greece in the summer?

We were chatting to an older gentleman over a coffee. We didn’t know how to begin to describe the grey skies or any of the incongruously named storms at home (Desmond? ….Imogen??) . It was easier to point to the clear blue light, the aquamarine sea, snow on the distant mountains and the fact that we were enjoying it all largely on our own. Why wouldn’t we visit in winter?

We left our sheltered corner on the Argolis peninsula to discover what else the Peloponnese had to offer. It was a while since we had flexed our exploring muscles but the promise of more opportunities to view the past and present through the same lens revived our interest.

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Day one saw us leave the warm coast to drive up into snow capped mountains. We passed through Sparti, the modern presence of the ancient city of warriors and camped near Mystras. The archaeological sites we had visited to date were made up of many layers of history. Mystras, in the foothills of the Taÿgetos Mountains, is different in that it represents one era of the Byzantine Empire between 1271 and 1460.

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The fortress at the top gives wide views of the countryside around modern Sparti
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There are many Byzantine churches in the city
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Stunning frescoes are preserved
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It is easy to imagine the narrow city streets
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The Pantanassa Monastery is still occupied by nuns

Monemvasia sits on a rock off the south western coast of the Peloponnese. Much of it dates from the same time as Mystras and puts flesh on the bones of those ruins.

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The rock was separated from the mainland by an earthquake in  375. A causeway connects Monemvasia with Gefyra
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The fortress town is accessed through a small L-shaped tunnel
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The narrow streets are now occupied by shops, tavernas and hotels
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The main square offers views up to the fortress at the top
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The stone houses perch on the side of the rock
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Views to the mainland are spectacular

Gythio was once the port of ancient Sparta  but now it is fishing boats and ferries that use the harbour beside a lovely friendly town. As with other parts of Greece, people are friendly and want to chat. When asked where we were from, the answer East of England prompted a  10 minute conversation about Norwich City’s performance in the Premier League and we were informed about the close match against Liverpool the day before!

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The islet of Marathonisi is said to be ancient Cranae, where Paris prince of Troy consummated the love affair with Helen, wife of Menelaus, that caused the Trojan War.

Gythio is also gateway to the Mani region which has a very separate identity and more rugged beauty than the rest of the Greek mainland. Maniots were renowned for their independence and violent internal feuds which  explains the strange tower settlements built as refuges during clan wars. Thankfully they seem as cheerful as everyone else now!

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Many tower houses are being restored as holiday homes
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The fishing heritage of Gerolimenas is gradually giving way to tourism
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There are steps to assist visitors in climbing to the top of the cliff face!
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The rugged beauty of the Mani coastline, close to our furthest point travelled south.

Driving around the Peloponnese allowed us to appreciate the natural beauty of Greece both in the mountains and at sea level. This is scenery that you want to drink in and makes you glad to be alive. Life seems simple and is probably harder than it is attractive. The olive harvest was over and small fires of clippings from pruned trees sent smoke signals across the landscape. Wild gorse scented the air and the roaring sound of bees near to the rows of hives dotted everywhere was genuinely alarming.

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We were always following a tractor or pick-up trucks taking sacks of olives to the mills
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The Tagetos Mountains preside over life in the south Peloponnese

 

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Crossing them on the Langada Pass was exhilarating

 

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Sunset over the island monastery at Marathopoli

It was immediately clear that we wouldn’t be able to squeeze Brian into the narrow streets of Koroni so were baffled and bemused when we saw large buses stop in the town square. There was more manageable sized transport available though!

Koroni has a castle which along with the Venetian castle at Methoni are known as the ‘eyes of Venice in Greece’. Methoni is also a beautiful little town and the castle is our favourite in Europe so far. This was a stopping point for pilgrims travelling to the Holy Lands .The view from the jetty gives a clue to it’s amazing position.

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The entrance bridge has 14 stone arches and a moat protected what the sea did not

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The waves make the most dramatic soundscape
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The fortified sea gate
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A fortified islet, the Bourtzi was often used as a prison

Pylos was once called Navarino which is also the (Italian) name of the bay it looks out over. This was the scene of an important sea battle fought during the Greek war of independence in 1827. Wrecks are still visible through the crystal clear water.

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The town nestles around the deep harbour
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The town square commemorates three admirals (French, British and Russian)  involved in the victory over the Turkish allies
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The square also has beautiful plane trees under which to enjoy a lazy coffee!
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Nearby is Gialova which has the most beautiful beach backed by a freshwater lagoon. Kipper spent a blissful afternoon here running up and down just for the fun of it!

The natural marvels of the Peloponnese are punctuated by ancient sites and more quirky landmarks like the replicas of the Eiffel tower and Disney’s palace built by a Doctor who returned to Filiatra after a successful career in the United States.

Olympia is one of the most atmospheric ancient sites we visited. A sacred truce to cease fighting was sworn in order to participate in sporting and cultural events which explains the significance of the temples alongside the sports facilities.

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The temple of Zeus to whom the games were dedicated
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Participants entered the stadium through the crypt, a vaulted passageway
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The courtyard of the Palaestra was where athletes trained for wrestling, boxing and jumping.
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The fantastic archaeological museum displays statues and objects from the sanctuary’s life

Greece  is laid back, a bit messy in places but extremely friendly. Time keeping is not highly valued but good simple food and wine is. Maybe that is why we have felt at home and found it so easy to enjoy this winter. The only difficulty is leaving. We have just about managed to avoid behaving like sulky teenagers and actually got ourselves onto a ferry to Italy. The trail continues…

M&G xx

Treat of the week: Motorhoming in Greece is so easy with many opportunities for free camping. We spent many nights next to the sea including several harbours on the Peloponnese. It was a privilege to watch the comings and goings of fishermen and coastguards and to enjoy very special views from our pillow.

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Catch of the week!

 

‘The crisps are under the dog’

243 nights : 8,200 miles travelled : Countries visited: 14

‘Too much of a good thing is wonderful’   Liberace

It has been surprisingly refreshing living with limited space. It took us too long to remember what is in which cupboard and it can be irritating always moving one thing to get to another. However our innate urge to hoard and live like slobs has been resisted; Brian’s interior can resemble a jumble sale in less than an hour, so we have learned to tidy as we go!

It has also been great buying only enough groceries for a few days at a time, as it doesn’t make sense to carry trolley fulls with us. This fell apart slightly over the past few weeks. With not moving on every couple of days, we were able to justify acquiring extra goodies with the advent of Christmas. However there was not enough space to put them in everyday cupboards so we had wine, crisps and sweets stowed away in every available nook and cranny under the seats. We often had to weigh up the urge to snack with the hassle of disturbing Kipper. Our post-Christmas waistlines betray how often the poor dog was woken up!

Being based in Drepano for five weeks has recharged our batteries. It has been wonderful to use local shops and to catch snatches of village life as we pass through. Women in their best black embracing each other after church. Children precariously balanced on the front of tractors or on the back of mopeds. Old men playing backgammon on the streets outside the bar. Crated oranges piled precariously high on their way to distribution depots. It all feels novel and yet familiar.

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Our daughter Hannah visited and she enjoyed a condensed version of our temporary residency in a few short days. From a swim in the sunshine and lunch at the taverna on the beach to wandering ancient ruins under a threatening sky.

The theatre at Epidavros is one of the best preserved in Greece.

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The scale of the 3rd century theatre is awe-inspiring
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The theatre has amazing acoustics from even the highest seats
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A dramatic setting 
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Taking centre stage!
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Epidavros was a renowned sanctuary of healing. Now it is the temples being restored.
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The museum displays statues, votive offerings and inscriptions recording miraculous cures

The main advantage of sleeping high over the cab is that it the only area out of reach of Kipper…or so we thought. He was delighted that  Hannah came to visit and didn’t want to miss out on a second of her being back with the pack!

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What’s the problem?

Hannah’s last night saw the worst storm in Drepano for 20 years. The sea frothed and washed the narrow beach across the road and into campsites and driveways.

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We inspected the damage to distract ourselves from the gloom of returning Hannah to the airport.  It was impressive how quickly the debris was cleared up and the road was surveyed for repairs within days. While the financial crisis is very real here in Greece, it is very much a country that is still functioning; usually with a warm smile too!

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Even the  change in the weather did not help us to unstick ourselves from Drepano. Too much of this good thing has indeed been wonderful. We have so loved living simply and slowly; even a coffee with neighbours can take 3 hours! However we are aware that the Peloponnese holds more treasures so we have at last managed to move on; only by promising ourselves that we will return before we leave Greece!

M & G xx

Treat of the week: A tough choice. The homemade tsipouro kindly given to us by the butcher in Drepano or Hannah’s gift of teabags from England? Probably the one that didn’t leave the screaming headache the next morning!

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Not water…firewater!
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At last a decent cuppa.

 

Under Pressure

We’ve been here quite a few nights: Not many miles travelled: No more countries since the last time!

Kali Hronia!

Both my Mother and Grandmother regularly used pressure cookers when I was a child but we were also fed stories about exploding stews and soup being sprayed all over the walls. That, along with the horrid hissing sound  they made meant that we avoided the kitchen as though there was an unstable nuclear reactor being used to cook dinner.

So it was a big decision to buy a pressure cooker as part of our preparations for the trip. They cook faster than a conventional pan so use a lot less fuel  and modern pressure cookers are lighter with more safety features. Nevertheless I watch and listen the whole time it is on the heat. But this was my only concern on Christmas morning. We made avgolemono (egg-lemon chicken soup)  and hirino me prasa (pork, fennel and leek ragout) to share with other lovely Brits for lunch. Chris and Catherine cooked a delicious lamb kleftiko while David and Carol provided the essential roast potatoes and pigs in blankets (it just wouldn’t be Christmas without them.)  There wasn’t a brussel sprout or a mince pie in sight and nor did I miss the hours of traditional peeling, stuffing and basting.

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Thankfully over indulgence is an international tradition!
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Role reversal… personalised stockings from our lovely kids
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Some of us braved a Christmas day swim
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Boxing Day saw a closely contested boules tournament
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Some took it less seriously than others!
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Victory is sweet

Our campsite is about half way along the beach at Drepano. There are strange rock formations along the water’s edge but the water is Greek clear and it is easy to spot and avoid the sea urchins that cling to them. Small boats regularly fish the bay against the backdrop of islands and distant mountains.

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Drepano Beach from the Asine acropolis

The western end of the beach is buttressed by the fortified acropolis of Asine, an ancient city that participated in the Trojan war. Little remains after it was used as a gun emplacement by Italian troops during the second world war.

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The acropolis gives views of the orange groves to the north
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Romvi and Koronisi to the south

The village is in easy walking distance and there is a lively village community.

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A stressful walk to the shops….Kipper is terrified of sheep!

 

Local shops had a warm festive buzz on Christmas eve and we have been wished ‘kali hronia’ countless times over the new year.

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We celebrated an Auckland New Year so that we could eat lunch together outside and avoid the need to stay up until midnight!
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The hats indicate a 10 degree drop in temperature from Christmas week

Nafplio was the capital of the newly formed Greek state in the 19th century and the old town is the most beautiful we have seen in Greece. There is plenty to see and do but we love just to sit with a coffee and watch people go by.

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The old town is built on a peninsula
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The Bourtzi is the smallest of three fortresses
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Italian influence in Syntagma Square
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Kipper can’t even pretend that he’s been good! It was strange to see Christmas decorations in such bright sunshine
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Decorating a boat is more traditional than putting lights on a tree

Epiphaneia is marked on January 6th by a blessing of the waters where a cross is thrown into the sea at the end of a religious ceremony. The cross is then retrieved by local volunteers. We were unaware of this tradition and arrived in Nafplio just as the parades had ended. If I had realised we were missing the sight of young men diving into the harbour I’m sure I would have got out of bed an hour or two earlier.

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The party is over!
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Locals enjoyed promenading in their Sunday best
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The Arvanitia Promenade follows the edge of the rocky peninsula
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The kilometre long walk offers an unusual perspective of the town
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The bouys!
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Even the cacti don’t escape the Greek love of graffiti

We have so enjoyed travelling over the last six months that we wondered how we’d ever manage life in one place again. However we are well into  our fourth week in Drepano and can’t imagine wanting to leave. We occasionally get the maps and guides out….and then they are put away again. So we aren’t putting ourselves under any pressure to make firm plans in the hope that we find ourselves back on the road without even noticing.

Happy New Year!

M & G xx

Treat of the week: The phrase ‘oranges are in season’ will always take us back to being surrounded by them over Christmas 2015

Ruined

214 nights : 7,555 miles travelled : Countries visited: 14

Sentiment without action is the ruin of the soul.  Edward Abbey

Thirty three years of marriage is no guarantee that you will enjoy living together 24/7 in a space smaller than many bathrooms and we are amazed that we haven’t had more than the occasional healthy tiff. Nevertheless I was keen for Graham to visit our daughter and her partner in Athens while I held the shell back at camp. It was soon apparent he was more keen for me to leave him to enjoy some long forgotten solitude.

I arranged to meet Holly and Jonny at Syntagma (Constitution) Square but it seemed that thousands of others got my message as drums and whistles approached while I waited. We knew about the general strike, it had disrupted my journey into the city centre. But despite walking past road blocks, I didn’t realise I was standing right where the latest anti-austerity demonstration was planned.

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Roads and paths were blocked but I was guided around them by friendly policemen
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The marchers also seemed well natured, if noisy
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A minority then threw red paint and petrol bombs at buildings
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Police used tear gas to clear the front of the Parliament building, sending birds up into the air and crowds down the steps

Much has been written about the Greek financial crisis and it is for people more qualified than us to comment. We have seen evidence of a fair amount of ‘make do and mend’ but there has been no scrimping on the welcome we have received and the generosity shown.

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I stayed overnight at the apartment Holly and Jonny had rented and we were able to see street life away from the tourist traps. But the main reason to visit was visible from much of the city centre. The Acropolis stands like a crown on the capital, with the monuments as jewels.

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The recently restored Temple of Athena Nike
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The Propylaia was the impressive entrance to the Acropolis. Built between 437 and 432 BC, it is currently undergoing heavy restoration.
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Nothing prepares you for the sheer size of the Parthenon
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The restoration work serves to convey the scale.
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The Theatre of Dionysos could seat 17,000, illustrating the importance placed on the arts in the ancient city state.

The new Acropolis museum is a wonderful example of a modern building which manages to enhance it’s subject. Luckily it was one of the few attractions open on the day of the strike so we enjoyed it at leisure and largely on our own.

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Athena and Poseidon as they would have stood on the west pediment of the Parthenon. A heroic attempt to compensate for Lord Elgin’s theft!
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The central palmette akroterion decorated the temple and has been restored using a precious few fragments
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The glass walls of the museum give clear views to the Acropolis
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The stone in and around the monuments would have been richly coloured. The staining here is caused by metallic eyelashes.
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Two heads are better than one
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Fourthought
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One little coin won’t be missed will it?
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The lego model, one of my favourite exhibits! The Temple of Athena Nike is front right, the Propylaia is centre front and the Parthenon is right back. The British Museum should swap the controversial marbles for this!

The Agora was the centre of commercial, administrative and political activity and while there is little left standing, this is the area that left me with the strongest sense of the ancient city.

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The Stoa of Attalos was reconstructed in the 1950s
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The original was two storeys high, had a series of 45 columns and housed expensive shops
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The Temple of Hephaestus was dedicated to the god of the forge and was surrounded by metalwork shops and foundries

Holly and Jonny joined us where we were camped near the tip of Attica at Cape Sounion for a weekend of brisk swims, coastal walks and sunsets over the sea.

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Kipper was happy to see some old playmates
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The Temple of Poseidon is on the headland in the distance
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The Temple was built at the same time as the Parthenon
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A dramatic outlook to sea

All too soon we had to pretend to be brave to say goodbye, pull ourselves together and remember the trail will one day take us back to our family again. You need to be living in the moment to appreciate the time of your life.

The Corinth Canal was thought to be a good idea for thousands of years but only built in the 19th century. The 6 km cut saves a journey of 700 km around the Peloponnese but is too narrow for many modern ships. Nevertheless it is an impressive sight and a must see for a long time canal fan.

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There is a submersible bridge at either end of the canal
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Pedestrians get to walk up the middle
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The canal links the Bay of Corinth with the Saronic Gulf

Ancient Corinth extends under a modern village, breaking ground in spaces between houses and through roadworks. The archaeological site and museum struggle to tell the story of the rich powerful city that once stood here but it’s position near to the Isthmus of Corinth that connects the Greek mainland with the Peloponnese and a wealth of history is fascinating.

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The Temple of Apollo
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The Roman fountain
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The Acrocorinth is a 570m hill of limestone rock
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It’s natural fortification is reinforced by a fortress that has seen centuries of action
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We stayed outside the gate overnight to enjoy an eerie view disappear into the mists

As we travel through Greece it seems that every few miles there is a story,  historical or mythological, for me to read out loud as we drive to the next site. I have to admit that there have been times when we feel all ruined out and ancient stones lose their ability to inspire. But not for long. It is so easy to imagine the lives that we read about in books when you are looking at the land that they saw.

Mycenae is older, much older than anything we have visited so far. This is the “Cyclopean city, rich in gold” referenced in Homer’s Iliad and is the city of the first major civilisation on the Greek mainland.

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The hill of the Acropolis was surrounded by a wall and further protected by two neighbouring mountains. 
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The ‘cyclopean’ stones gave rise to the myth it was built by Giants from Lycia. The Lions above the gate have lost their heads but are magnificent.
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The North Gate is a similar design and as with the Lion Gate,  built around 1250 BC 

 

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Mycenae is famous for treasures in gold but the pottery makes the lives of the ancients seem real
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Many exhibits are around 3,000 years old but the art makes the time melt away
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The entrance to the Treasury of Atreus or Grave of Agamemnon. Eighty chamber tombs have been excavated around the Acropolis of Mycenae
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The beehive shaped chamber was too spooky to stay inside alone for long!
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Mycenae had a commanding view over the plain

We have moved to the coast to pass the Christmas holiday; our first away from ‘home’.  We are miles away from loved ones but also miles away from a self inflicted frenzy of shopping and cooking. It would seem we are not far enough away from Michael Buble but I can always take a walk on the beach to get away from Graham’s perverse pleasure in playing Frosty the Snowman.

Seasons Greetings and lots of love! 

M & G xx

Treat of the Week: Buying fresh produce grown by Spiros at the camper stop in Ancient Corinth was a treat but we are going to enjoy the tooth achingly sweet preserved fruits made by his wife for months to come!

Feeling Good!

201 nights : 7,388 miles travelled :  countries visited: 14

Birds flying high you know how I feel, sun in the sky you know how I feel, breeze drifting on by you know I feel.     Newley & Bricusse

Greece is sunny and laid back which is helping us master the art of snailing. We have often had to force ourselves to move on, or even to do very much at all. Therefore this post covers four weeks of our trail across Northern and Central Greece.

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Kali mera!

Our first nights were in Alexandroupoli, just across the border from Turkey, recovering from the frustration of observing border rules unnecessarily. We found ourselves surrounded by jogging geriatrics. Despite being the youngest old people for miles, they made us feel like sloths so we left before the urge to join them overwhelmed us.

We parked overnight at the nature reserve in Fanari, enticed by the prospect of seeing pelicans and flamingos. We saw only swans and empty storks nests but loved sleeping on a narrow bar of land with a freshwater lagoon on one side of us and a sandy beach on the other.

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Beach life suits Kipper. He loves the space to run and adores playing in the sea. We joined David and Carol at Epanomi  near Thessaloniki and spent a blissful week adjusting to the gentle rhythm of life on a quiet beach in Greece.

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The view from Brian
Patamos Beach Epanomi (Greece). Kipper at work
David managed to capture Kipper doing his flying fish impression
Patamos Beach Epanomi (Greece). Kipper at work
He never tires of swimming for sticks and diving like an otter for stones
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Graham’s beach kitchen
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Stunning sunsets looking towards Mount Olympus
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Last night in the beach taverna that had generously given us water for the motorhome in exchange for us buying their wine. A good deal!!!!
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Before we say goodbye, Brian gives Felix the kiss of life to get him moving again!

There is so much more to Greece than beach life and we tore ourselves away to explore inland. Vergina is a relatively young village having been created in the 1920’s to accommodate Greeks from Turkey. They were made homeless in a population exchange in the aftermath of World War I. Only afterwards was it discovered that the village was built on the site of Aigai, the first capital of Macedon. An amazing museum has been created underground by the royal tombs, including that of Phillip II, the father of Alexander the Great. He was assassinated here in 336 BC at the wedding of his daughter.

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The earth mound housing the tombs and the museum. Sadly no photography was allowed of the treasures inside
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The tunnel entrance into the mound

We felt that we had carried autumn with us for weeks since driving south from Hungary. It was in full force in Northern Greece as we moved from flame coloured peach trees around Vergina to copper plated beech in the Pindos mountains.

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Lunch stop in the Pindos mountains
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A few miles from this gorge is the Aheloos River, controversially dammed. Aheloos is god of the river in Greek mythology and locals say his mother Tethys is crying at the shame of it

Meteora is quite unlike anywhere else with monasteries and ruins perched on dramatic pinnacles of smooth rock. From the 11th century hermit monks inhabited caves in this landscape and from the 14th century monasteries offered a haven to monks escaping Turkish incursions.

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Camping in Kastraki near Meteora
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Moni Agiou Nikolau Anapafsa was closest to us but we aimed for the top
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The monasteries are now linked by roads but we walked on the old paths or monopati

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A dramatic view of Moni Agiou Nikolau Anapafsa from the side

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Moni Agias Varvaras Rousanou
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Moni Varlaam. You can see the windlass being used above the footbridge to hoist supplies up. This was the original method of transporting people too! The cable in the foreground is supplying electricity to our destination, Moni  Megalou Meteorou behind us.

 

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Moni Megalou Meteorou is built on the highest rock. After climbing for so long with it above us, here we  could look down onto Moni Varlaam

 

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Despite being willing to wear a skirt, Kipper was not allowed to enter
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The verandah is modestly decorated compared to the church
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The katholikon or main church has a twelve sided dome and striking frescoes depicting the matyrdom of saints

We zigzagged east again to the busy port of Volos. This is ancient Iolkos from where the mythological Jason and the Argonauts set sail on their quest for the Golden Fleece. Just beyond is the Pelion Peninsula with mountains along it’s spine, narrow beaches around the fringe and seemingly entirely coated with trees bearing olives, nuts and citrus fruits. Our campsite was in an olive grove a few metres from the beach. This seemed wonderful until late on the first evening, the weather changed and with it, the sea. I didn’t sleep much as the boy’s snoring was drowned out by the waves and I felt I had to remain on Canute duty. I insisted we move further back the next day!

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The calm before the storm
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Our beach is vanishing!
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The village nearby was battered

In mythology, Zeus released two eagles at opposite ends of the earth and they met over Delphi so in Ancient Greece, this was considered the centre of the world. It has an imposing position high on Mount Parnassos looking out towards the Bay of Corinth and it is easy to imagine why so much spiritual significance was placed upon the city. The Sacred Way winds up through the site and is lined with the remains of monuments, treasuries and statues given by city states in thanks to Apollo for help in winning battles or other blessings.

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The Sanctuary of Athena
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The 4th century BC dome has been partially rebuilt
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The Sanctuary of Apollo
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The Temple and it’s gold statue of Apollo dominated the sanctuary
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The Athenian Treasury has been reconstructed
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The theatre gives fantastic views over the valley filled with olive trees
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The stadium is so well preserved there are still etched stone starting blocks
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The Castalian Spring, where pilgrims cleansed themselves before consulting the oracle, has been diverted to a fountain. Oracles were most often women in their 50s who would inhale vapours, talk gibberish and tell people what to do. I think I should apply for the job!
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The museum houses breathtaking exhibits like this Sphinx which would have stood on a column 12.5 m high. An offering to the Apollo of Delphi by the island of Naxos.
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The Gods are depicted fighting to subdue the Giants. The Gods win, symbolising the triumph of order and civilisation over savagery and anarchy. So much exquisite art to see everywhere.
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The Charioteer of Delphi. This life sized bronze statue dates from 470 BC and gave me goose bumps. Graham feels the reconstruction of the pieces  in the display behind is “a leap of faith!”

We briefly met Ali and Hendrik in Thessaloniki and then bumped into them again at Delphi. Like David and Carol, they are really experienced travellers, we feel we learn more from them over a cup of coffee than in days of researching the internet.

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Hendrik built Blac himself recycling highway signs!

Moni Osios Loukas is in an idyllic isolated setting that feels light years away from the modern world. The main church has some of the best preserved Byzantine frescoes but it was the beautiful mosaics that caught my eye. SAM_9182SAM_9213SAM_9210

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The simplicity of the monastic complex contrasts with the richly decorated church

We were heading for an important rendezvous with our daughter Holly in Athens but on the way pitched at Psatha near Porto Germano. The road down to the sea was one of the steepest and most twisted  we have encountered but Ali and Hendrik were there once again and had been watching dolphins play in the Bay! We only caught the very end of the display but we had just enough time to open a bottle of wine and once again watch the weather and the sea change before our eyes.

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It is now six months since we moved into the motorhome and so far the trail has exceeded our hopes, confounded our fears and is feeling good.

M & G x

Treat of the week: All our time in Greece has been a treat but the gifts of wine, flowers and fruit received from the old gentleman at the taverna on Potamas beach represents the warmth and generosity of everyone we have encountered.SAM_8824